Friday evening, on the 7:55 ferry from Oakland to San Francisco. Looking back up the estuary past the Port of Oakland’s inner harbor. The ferry’s rear deck is set up with overhead radiant heaters, so even in the winter during a storm, it’s tolerable to ride back there; in fact, in all the dozens of times I’ve taken this trip, I don’t think I’ve ever sat inside the boat.
"You want it to be one way. But it's the other way."